Do As the Romans Do and Check out the Castelli Romani

Castelli Romani is the region of wine-producing towns set in the volcanic landscape of the Colli Albani, the Alban Hills, 20 km southeast of Rome. In Roman times, the Castelli Romani region was attractive to nobility for its crisp climate, beautiful scenery and close proximity to Rome. The rich volcanic soils attracted Romans as well, and signs of them can still be seen all over the territory. Though most of the towns and villages of the Castelli Romani are not hot spot tourist destinations, they are beloved by local Romans who take day trips to the region to drink terrific wine and escape the Roman heat. The Castelli Romani has a charming, rural atmosphere, with beautiful rolling hills and delicious food. Here are 5 towns you should visit in the Castelli Romani: 

Frascati

The largest and arguably most impressive of the Castelli Romani, is the historic town of Frascati. The pleasure of Frascati can be found strolling aimlessly through the town’s small streets and lively squares. The Frascati skyline is dominated by the baroque Villa Aldobrandini, the grandiose 17th-century summer palace of Pope Clement VIII. For a little slice of culture you can peek into the Frascati Cathedral, a Roman Catholic cathedral and minor basilica dedicated to Saint Peter the Apostle. You can make your way to Piazza del Mercato, where you’ll stumble upon simple stalls selling piles of porchetta. One of the best parts about visiting Frascati is hanging out at a traditional fraschetta (wineshop) to enjoy a liter or two of the local Frascati white wine. To get to Frascati you can take a 30 minute train that departs every hour from Rome’s Termini train station. A train ticket costs less than €3. 

Castel Gandolfo

Castel Gandolfo is perched above the pure waters of the volcanic crater lake Lago Albano. The small, picturesque town is best known for the magnificent Palazzo Apostolico, where for centuries the popes traditionally enjoyed their summer vacations. While Pope Francis prefers to take time away in a more humble setting, the immaculately maintained gardens of Villa Barberini are open to the public and bring thousands of visitors each year. In the town’s main square you’ll find the cathedral and fountain designed by Bernini. Below the town at the lakeshore there are a number of trails offering plenty of good hiking opportunities for nature lovers. To get to Castel Gandolfo you can take a 45 minute train that departs every hour from Rome’s Termini train station. A train ticket costs less than €3. 

Ariccia

Surrounded by oak forests, Ariccia is a charming town with a central square that was once again home to two architectural masterpieces by Baroque artist Bernini: Palazzo Chigi and the Collegiata Maria SS. in Cielo, a church whose central plan is inspired by the Pantheon. Ariccia’s claim to fame is undoubtedly its porchetta, the otherworldly roast pork that stands as the culinary symbol of the area. You can take your pick of the delicious simple eateries that line atmospheric streets where tables are scenically scattered offering spectacular views across the countryside far below. From Rome, you can take the subway Metro A to Anagnina and exit the subway station. Outside in the parking lot is where you’ll find the CoTral bus terminal. Tickets to Ariccia cost €2,50 each way and are good for any bus time. A bus departs every 30-40 minutes. 

Marino 

The Castelli Romani area is widely known for its wine, and nowhere is this ancient tradition more apparent than in the town of Marino. Each October the locals gather to celebrate their famous Sagra dell’Uva (Festival of the Grape) when local producers set up shop in the cobbled streets of the town’s historic center. Best of all, during the height of the festivities, the town’s fountains run free with wine! Viniculture is essential in the local economy but Marino’s historic center is worth a visit outside of the festival. Don’t miss the Fontana dei Quattro Mori – the Fountain of the Four Moors  - erected during the 17th century to celebrate the defeat of the Turks at Lepanto by local hero Marcantonio Colonna. To get to Marino you can take a 35-40 minute train that departs every hour from Rome’s Termini train station. A train ticket costs less than €3. 

Nemi

Beautiful Nemi is one of Castelli's must-visit destinations with its terrific views and gorgeous lake. The tiny historic center is filled with narrow streets that lead you to the grand Palazzo Ruspoli and the adjacent piazza. Besides the spectacular panoramic views of the countryside, Nemi’s claim to fame is the local variety of strawberry called fragoline. Smaller than your average strawberry, these little bursts of flavor can be sampled at any shop or restaurant around the town. Each year a festival devoted to Nemi’s fragoline marks the high point of the season’s harvest. To reach Nemi by bus, go to the Anagnina Metro stop in Rome. From here, take the CoTral bus heading for Genzano. At Genzano, change buses, taking the one marked NEMI. Service is about every 30 minutes during the day.