In the beautiful city of Sulmona in the Peligna Valley of Abruzzo, a spectacular event happens every Easter Sunday. The celebration known as “La Madonna che Scappa” (Our Lady running in the Square) reenacts the moment when the Virgin Mary sees Jesus, her resurrected son, for the first time. The feast of the La Madonna che Scappa has been a tradition in Sulmona dating back to ancient times. It has been documented since the 19th century onwards, but its roots go back at least to the 1600s, possibly even to the Middle Ages.
For the Sulmonese, Holy Week is a culmination of events leading up to Easter Sunday and the ceremony of La Madonna che scappa in Piazza Garibaldi. The Confraternity of Santa Maria di Loreto, whose male members are called the “Lauretani”, oversees the Holy Week events. They meet on Holy Monday and they designate four people who will be in charge of the running of Our Lady of Sorrows, which is one of the highest honors bestowed on a citizen of Sulmona. You’ll find the Lauretini men wearing white tunics with a shiny green cape to symbolize purity & hope. Following the selection prayers and vigils take place each night leading up to Good Friday.
On Good Friday, the city of Sulmona commemorates the Passion of Christ. This is when the crucifix is brought down and all those in attendance kiss the crucifix and attend mass. Following mass, a procession takes place throughout the streets and it includes a statue of Christ laying on top of a casket, covered in white. Behind the casket is a statue of the Madonna dressed in black carrying a white handkerchief in her right hand, which is a symbol of sorrow.
On Holy Saturday the statue of the Madonna is taken from the Church of Santa Maria della Tomba to the Church of San Filippo Neri where the statue remains overnight. A bonfire is lit in the center of the piazza and the fire is used to light the Paschal Candle. At midnight, bells begin to roar signifying the resurrection of Jesus.
On Easter Sunday, a procession takes place and the statue of the resurrected Christ is placed under one of the arches in Piazza Garibaldi on the opposite side from San Filippo Neri church. The statue of St. Peter and St. John is taken to San Filippo Neri church signifying that Mary was told the good news. They knock on the door of the church and tell Mary that Jesus has risen. However, she does not believe them and refuses to come out. St. John knocks again and tells her that Jesus is waiting on the other size of the piazza. Mary believes St. John and as the doors burst open, the statue is carried out of the church by the Lauretani, slowly making its way across the piazza. Once they carry Mary to the fountain in the middle of the piazza she finally sees Jesus. At this moment, the Lauretani race through the piazza with the statue symbolizing Mary running towards Jesus. The black dress, a symbol of sorrow, falls off of Mary and she is wearing a green dress which symbolizes life and good fortune. The white handkerchief is gone and a red rose, a symbol of love, is in her hand and 12 doves representing the 12 apostles are released flying high into the sky. Those selected to carry the statue of Mary start to run until they get to the arch where Jesus is. If you find yourself in Italy during Easter you won’t want to miss this ancient and moving tradition in Sulmona so you can take part in the celebration of Jesus' resurrection.
Arianna DiCicco
Arianna DiCicco is an educator and writer from California, born into an Italian American restaurant family with strong ties to her grandparents’ home in Abruzzo, Italy. She has lived in San Francisco, Rome and New York City where she’s made deep connections within the Italian communities and gained new perspectives about her own culture. With a Masters in International Education, Arianna has a love and passion for learning and educating others about Italian history & culture.