In Naples and the surrounding region, tradtionally Easter was much more than just a Sunday afternoon lunch. Beginning on Holy Thursday, it has long been celebrated as a multi-day holiday, and while many of these traditions are uprooted by modernity, elements still remain.
In Catholic teachings, Holy Thursday commemorates the Last Supper, a Seder meal Jesus held with his apostles. Good Friday commemorates the crucifixion where he was executed.
On Holy Thursday, artichokes boiled with oil and ricotta salata are served. Coincidentally, artichokes are also a common dish served by Jewish Italians during Passover.
(Photo Credit: Bon Apetit)
Another dish that appears on Holy Thursday is the Neapolitan fellata, a plate made of sliced salami and other cold foods like hard boiled eggs and cheese, often served as a first course, and many families will serve it on Easter Sunday.
Thursday is also for baking pastiera, a Neapolitan wheat cake made with fresh berries. The cake includes cream and ricotta, and is similar to a very thick, dense cheesecake. Although the cake is baked on Holy Thursday, it is intended to be served on Easter Sunday or given away to friends. The cake is cooked ahead of time to allow the flavors to concentrate.
Good Friday was historically a day for fasting. Neapolitans typically serve fish, considered part of a fast. Pellegrino Artusi, the author of 19th century cookbook the Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, offers recipes for pranzo di quaresima, a lunch for Lent, which includes creamed cod.
(Photo Credit: Allrecipes)
On Holy Saturday, Neapolitans are allowed to begin eating Casatiello, a stuffed bread topped with whole eggs. It is forbidden to eat this before Saturday. The eggs are secured to the bread with strips of dough that look like crosses, a symbolism of the resurrection. The bread is typically baked in a circular pan and stuffed with mortadella, cheese, and salami.
The meal on Easter Sunday is a large, multicourse affair. The fellata plate with meat and eggs returns. The meal often commences with minestra maritata, Italian Wedding Soup. The soup combines the savory flavors of small meatballs with the bitter flavors of leafy greens, usually the sort of greens available in the early spring. Crostata di tagliolini is also often served made from potatoes or noodles layered with meat, cheese, mushrooms and milk and baked like a pie. Finally, as is common across Italy, Neapolitans serve a roasted lamb.
Ian MacAllen
Ian MacAllen is America Domani's Senior Correspondent and the author of Red Sauce: How Italian Food Became American. He is a writer, editor, and graphic designer living in Brooklyn. Connect with him at IanMacAllen.com or on Twitter @IanMacAllen.