The quaint town of Irsina, located in Italy’s southern Basilicata region, is home to 4,000 Italian residents – and more than 300 non-Italians from 12 different countries.
The rural medieval-era town is perched on a hill overlooking sprawling wheat fields. It has in recent years become a hotspot for expats, mostly American retirees seeking la dolce vita in their later years. More than 15 families from the United States and Canada have bought old properties in Irsina, which is known for its wheat fields and olive groves.
Over time, a handful of expats have turned into many, the prospect of relatively cheap houses with stunning agricultural views drawing more and more foreigners to the idyllic and isolated world that is Irsina. Spacious houses in the town’s historic center can go for €20,000 to €150,000, between $22,000 and $165,000.
Irsina’s historic center is enclosed by high walls and features old watchtowers and palazzos that recall the town’s once glamorous medieval past. Its narrow, car-free streets are mostly empty now, abandoned en masse by local residents in the 1960s who sought homes in newer neighborhoods. Prior to the 1960s, the town had a population of roughly 12,000, which dwindled to 4,500 after the mass emigration. Over the next 60 odd years, the old district was slowly abandoned by locals, until foreign expats began repopulating the area.
The town’s old name is Montepeloso, meaning “hairy hill,” and dates back to prehistoric times. Archaeological excavations have yielded tools, weapons, and ceramics belonging to cavemen, all of which are now preserved and can be viewed at a show in the local museum. Also notable are the town’s many “bottini,” underground tunnels which used to carry water to the town’s cisterns.
Asia London Palomba
Asia London Palomba is a trilingual freelance journalist from Rome, Italy. In the past, her work on culture, travel, and history has been published in The Boston Globe, Atlas Obscura, The Christian Science Monitor, and Grub Street, New York Magazine's food section. In her free time, Asia enjoys traveling home to Italy to spend time with family and friends, drinking Hugo Spritzes, and making her nonna's homemade cavatelli.